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Ryan Graham
owns more shoes than his girlfriend. And the 50 or so
pairs of utterly unique high-top Nikes, low-rise Adidas
and old-school Air Force Ones in his closest are nothing
that can be found in a mall. Graham, 29, runs PGH Sole, a
service in which he takes an ordinary pair of sneakers and
paints and personalizes them to his client’s liking,
often incorporating movie characters, musicians, and other
bits of popular culture.
Custom-painted
sneakers with bold, attention-grabbing designs are a hot
trend among young people right now, a shoe subculture that’s
creeping toward the mainstream. Personalized shoes are
showing up on celebrities like Justin Timberlake and
rapper Nas, while artists’ contests on websites like
SoleCollector.com draw scores of entries from artists
around the country. One episode of the popular HBO series
“Entourage” featured
a character shelling out $20,000 for a pair of shoes
customized by a fictional artist named Fukijama. The
actual shoes used in that episode were later auctioned off
on eBay for 15,000 real dollars. Major shoe manufacturers
like Nike, Adidas, and Reebok have gotten in on the act,
introducing their own online customization services.
Graham got his start in the shoe game about a year ago
during a shopping trip in Los Angeles with his sister,
Danielle. A stop at the Fred Segal store revealed a line
of flashy custom-painted sneakers. They caught Graham’s
eye, but what really got his attention was the price tag:
the suped-up sneaks ranged from $800 to $1,800.
Graham, a
student in the Pittsburgh Art Institute’s interior
design program, knew his own work could hold up to what he
saw selling in such high-end boutiques. He had already
dabbled with custom shoes previously, and his lifelong
love of footwear made such art a natural fit.
He sold his
first pair at a personal show in East Liberty’s Shadow
Lounge for $400, though his price isn’t always quite so
steep. Basic deigns can run around $75 plus the cost of
the shoe, but he has made sets worth $500.
“I do it for
the fun of it,” he says. “It’s amazing to see people
get so excited about it. I’m never going to do the same
shoe twice. No one on the planet will have the same shoe
as you.”
While
Graham’s inspirations can include anything from friends’
ideas to pop culture, his best ideas come from his own
brainstorming. A pair of shoes with a trim of gray fish
scales and a fleshy pink-orange coating Graham created as
tribute to Wholley’s (“They’re my ode to fish,” he
quips). Another, made for girlfriend Megan, depict the
famous scenes from E.T., with the alien in the bicycle
basket on one side and the “E.T. phone home” moment on
the other.
“I like
stuff that makes me laugh,” he says. “I mean, fish
scales? E.T.? There have been so many crazy ideas.” One
of his favorite sets of shoes is a pair showing a
post-swing Roberto Clemente on one side and a close-up of
the baseball great on the other. There’s also a shoe
tribute to the 10th Street Bridge, a pair he calls Bridge
City Infiltrators, with the bridge depicted on the tongue
and 412 printed on the back.
Sitting in
South Side’s Beehive and sporting a Pirates baseball
cap, Graham exudes hometown pride. A graduate of Mt.
Lebanon High School, he and his girlfriend Megan live in a
six-bedroom house in Highland Park, where he also has a
studio and a collection of vintage bicycles. He’s lived
in other states on both coasts, but he still considers
Pittsburgh his ideal home. “It has a neighborhood vibe
you can’t find in many places,” he says. “And with
the scene in South Side, the East End and Downtown, I feel
like I know everybody. Pittsburgh is getting cooler by the
minute.”
Some
of Graham’s clients are local deejays, who wear his work
and display his designs at shows, but the bulk of his
sales are made from his MySpace page, www.myspace/pghsole.
He’s looking into selling his work at local high-end
stores like Ulterior Motive.
With
mainstream designers like Mark Ecko bringing personalized
shoes to the national fashion scene, Graham expects the
trend to gain popularity in coming years.
Adam Rorick,
CEO of Rebellion Customs in Philadelphia, a company that’s
catered to celebrities like Justin Timberlake and rappers
T.I. and Nas, agrees. Many of his clients wore a Rebellion
design to the last MTV Video Music Awards — a sure sign
the trend is reaching America’s youth. “A lot of
people want to have something that no one else has,”
Rorick says. “They want that one-of-a-kind piece.” Rorick
is dismissive of attempts by big-name shoe manufacturers
to create their own “customized” products.
“A lot of sneaker companies try to do what we’re
doing, but they don’t cut it,” Rorick
says. “It’s not as artistic. They want to put out more
of a product that is super simple. We take the time and do
intricate work.”
Rebellion
specializes in Adidas sneakers. While he’ll work with
almost any shoe (he even hopes to one day lend his designs
to high heels), Graham prefers the old school look of Nike
Dunks, the high-top shoes with a flap near the top of the
tongue for holding up pant hems so they don’t drag on
the street. His penchant for old school style isn’t
exclusive to shoes. In an upcoming pair of shoes, he plans
to give a shout out to his hometown’s football team with
a throwback Steelers shoe, complete with headshots of
Terry Bradshaw and Franco Harris in a Mt. Rushmore-style
design. “I love anything vintage. It’s the best genre,”
he says. “Anything that inspires people to really look
at it, I like.”
Making
a One-of-a-Kind Shoe
The process of
customizing a sneaker starts with Graham rubbing the entire
shoe with acetone until it’s down to the bare leather.
He then applies an acrylic paint used specifically on
leather that flexes, so the design will not crack. Each
color requires about three or four coats, with each layer
taking 30 minutes to dry. Then it’s covered with a
waterproof sealer. The shoes can be worn anywhere and if
they get dirty, simply clean them with a sponge. Graham
will also help with touchups, should the need arise. “A
lot of people are too serious about their sneakers,” he
says. “They’ll have $30,000 worth of shoes and
they’ve never worn them. Shoes are meant to be worn.”
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